55th Reunion Wine-tasting Descriptions

The Class of '69's 55th Reunion featured another amazing wine- and cheese-tasting, organized by Dick Bott, Wayne Wilson, and Jeff von Arx.  Below, in alphabetical order by donor, are the descriptions of the wines we tasted.  Click here for the Cheese descriptions.  Enjoy!

Wine :  Domaine Bott Frères Vineyard, Crémant d’Alsace Rosé NV

Donor :  Dick Bott

The story:  I love the word eponymous—it sounds so big and formal but has a very simple definition: “giving one’s name to a place or thing.” About 30 years ago, Marian and I discovered our “eponymous” vineyard in Ribeauvillé, France, near Strasbourg.  We have made several visits there and befriended various family members.  We even spent a couple of hours comparing family tree information, which eventually culled out a likely connection in my grandfather’s hometown of Kassel, Germany. 

In business since 1835, Bott Frères produces a full line of Alsatian wines.  Today we are sharing one of their “crémants.”  Crémants are sparkling wines, made in the same way as champagne, but produced outside the closely regulated Champagne district. This one, a Rosé, combines the elegance of champagne with the summery taste of a rosé.  It’s made 100% from Pinot Noir grapes.

Ironically, the main retail sales channel in the United States for Bott Frères wines is the Princeton Corkscrew Wine Shop.  We always stock up when we visit Tigertown.

Wine:  2021 Château Saransot-Dupré Blanc

Donor:  Bill and Anne Charrier

The story:  In 2010 the hangers-on to ‘69’s first international mini-reunion to Paris and Normandy became immersed (literally and figuratively) in the wines of Burgundy and (on the white side) its oceans of Chardonnay.  Less known and underappreciated are the whites of Bordeaux.  Château Saransot-Dupré's 2021 is an even rarer bird, a left-banker from Listrac-Médoc.  Château Saransot-Dupré has been owned and operated by the Raymond family since 1756, when Guillaume Raymond, a barrel-maker in Listrac, purchased his first vineyards.  In 1875, Ovide Raymond purchased two additional vineyards in the heart of Listrac on the region's most revered terroir.  Over the following 260+ years, the family has preserved their vines and managed to keep the estate in family hands.  Today, Yves Ramond, a trained oenologist, runs the estate. Under his guidance and leadership, Château Saransot-Dupré received the trophy for Best Cru Bourgeois in 2017, the first property in Listrac to ever win this prestigious award.  

The 2021 Château Saransot-Dupré blanc is a blend of 50% Sémillon, 45% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Muscadelle.  One reason the wine is so exceptional is the old-vine vineyard from which it is sourced: the Sémillon was planted between 1935 and 1947, the Sauvignon Blanc in 1983 and the Muscadelle in 1935.   Eighty percent of the wine is fermented in oak barrels with the remaining 20% vinified in stainless steel tanks.  The wine shows a brilliant light gold color.  Aromas of ripe peach, Meyer lemon, grapefruit, pineapple and baking spice explode out of the glass.  On the palate, the Saransot-Dupré blanc delivers an exceptionally smooth wine with a rich mouthfeel and beeswax texture.  A delicate acidity permeates the wine, allowing for the concentrated fruit and oak flavors to effortlessly cascade across the palate into a refreshing complex finish.

With acknowledgement and thanks to Laurent Chapuis for finding it.  See if you can detect the beeswax texture.

Wine:  Starlite Vineyards 2022 Alexander Valley Viognier

Donor: Don and Betsy Dixon

The story:  Betsy and I discovered this young, family-owned vineyard in Geyserville, not far from our ranch in Alexander Valley, Sonoma County. The vineyards are nestled on a hilltop close to the Russian River, where proprietors Arman and Rina Pahlavan, along with their sons Spencer and Theodore, have produced wines that are artful expressions of their lives.

Their mantra is “to strive to make wines with fruit-forward flavors, floral bouquets, and elegance.  That is why we have some of the most aromatic and luscious wines in Alexander Valley.”  They make only 3 varietal wines, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, and Viognier.  

We particularly love their Viognier, of which they make only 250 cases.  It has spectacular aromas, fragrant fruit, well balanced acidity, and a crisp finish.  To quote the winery: “Our Viognier is “Condrieu” in style and exudes scents of orange blossom and honeysuckle along with layers of apricot, peaches and nectarine. The wine is deliciously ripe and fruitful, yet surprisingly dry and full-bodied with a luscious mouth-feel. The finish is moderately long, refreshing and crisp with a burst of acidity.”

The Viognier has received acclaim from the sommelier community as one of the most beautiful expressions of that varietal from California.

Wine:  2021 Georg Mueller Riesling Trocken

Donor:  David Fisher

The story:  Those of you who joined us on the September, 2013 Class trip to Germany will remember our visit to the real “Old Nassau” on the Lahn river, a tributary of the Rhine. Burg Nassau was built by the House of Nassau in 1120, the family that eventually produced Prince William of Nassau from whom our alma mater takes its name.

We drove down the Rhine from Wiesbaden through an area known as the “Rheingau” where some of the most renowned white wines of the world are produced. Wine was cultivated here already in Roman times. One of the many lovely venues is the beautiful little city of Eltville, in which the Georg-Müller-Stiftung is located. 

The Georg Müller Winery was founded in 1882, and in 1910 became a founding member of the VDP, the organization that sets quality standards for all German wines. The winery carefully manages all aspects of viticulture and winemaking to maintain the sense of “terroir” for all of their wines.

The Riesling we chose is labeled “trocken”, or “dry”, to differentiate it from the more famous, or some would say “notorious”, sweeter versions of Riesling like Kabinett, Spaetlese, and Auslese.

What a great legacy, to have our roots in German wine country.

Wine:  Gang Family Cellars Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

Donor:  Bob Gang

The story:  I’m proudly and selfishly offering my classmates some very personal wines, from my son and daughter-in-law’s recent project -- Gang Family Cellars.  I admit to being a big fan of wine and a bit of a collector, which clearly rubbed off on my son Taylor, and, later on, his wife Lisa. Gang Family Cellars is both the culmination, and the beginning, of an exciting family adventure.

GFC currently makes Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in both Sonoma, CA and Willamette Valley, OR. They work with a small number of talented winemakers and select vineyard sites to produce wines that express their unique stories.  Late this year they will be releasing about 330 cases, primarily direct to consumers via a wine club (interested classmates please let me know).

The wines are named for family members: we’d like to think that the characteristics of each wine align with personality traits of its namesake.  These are all inaugural vintages.

Willow Sonoma County Chardonnay 2022

2022 Willow Chardonnay is named for Taylor and Lisa’s Goldendoodle, whom they rescued in 2022, only a couple of weeks before the harvest. Her middle name, not incidentally, is Chardonnay. This agile wine has concentrated citrus fruit, lively acidity and elegant minerality. It shares energy and intensity with its namesake. 

Willow Is The Perfect Wine To Enjoy While Beating Dartmouth

Izzy Sonoma County Pinot Noir 2019

2019 IZZY Pinot Noir is named for our youngest granddaughter, who aims to become the world’s youngest sommelier. The grapes were selected from a tiny 2.2 acre southwest-facing vineyard in Green Valley AVA in the Russian River Valley, which is perfect for growing Pinot Noir.  Izzy’s aromatic wine is medium ruby in color and showcases crisp acidity with a long finish, yielding a boldness, complexity and sophistication that is uniquely…Izzy.

Izzy Is The Perfect Wine To Enjoy While Beating Yale

Lady Lisa Sonoma County Pinot Noir 2022

2022 Lady Lisa Pinot Noir is named for our daughter-in-law Lisa, Taylor’s wife. She is a fun-loving and positive family member, as well as being president and general counsel of Gang Family Cellars, all with a wonderful sense of humor. She is a Florida Gator, so the only tigers harmed during her collegiate career were from LSU. Her wine captures the elegant, floral and aromatic beauty of Pinot Noir while also high-lighting its sultry dark fruit and seductive, spicy complexity.

Lady Lisa Is The Perfect Wine To Enjoy While Beating Harvard

Here’s to Family.  Go Tigers!

Wine:  Juvé y Camps - Cava Brut Reserva de la Familia 2017

Donor:  Mike Gehret

The story:  About 25 years ago, Lor and I were in Spain with the Chicago Symphony Orchestra, escorting a group of CSO Trustees and donors.  The morning before the CSO’s concert in Barcelona, we visited the spectacular Benedictine monastery at Montserrat, where we listened to a choirboy concert in the basilica.  It was an unforgettable experience.

Following lunch in a rustic restaurant, we toured several local vineyards in Espiells, part of the Penedes wine region just west of Barcelona.This region is famous for Cava, Spanish sparkling wine made in the “méthode champenoise,”  but primarily from white grapes native to the Penedes area:  macabeu, xarel-lo, and parellada.

After the final vineyard tour, we sat at a rough wooden table under an arbor, enjoying the shade on a very hot, sunny day.  Our hosts kept pouring cava and bringing us food, including house-made chocolate truffles that may have been the best we ever had.  

We first tasted Juvé y Camps Cava on that wonderful afternoon, and it has been our “go to” sparkling wine ever since.  The winery site says that:  “Reserva de la Familia is our most emotional cuve´e. This is the wine that we create for toasting at all those get-togethers where we eat and drink and share long conversations.”

To your health!

Wine:  Antival Puro Fe 2021

Donor:  Curt Kehr

The story:  This wine represents a celebration.

I am an avid wildlife photographer.  I have taken the picture of the 5 largest cats in the world. This endeavor has spanned 6 continents and 2 countries. And it continues with a 6th big cat.  

In February I went to southern Chile the best place in the world to take pictures of puma, mountain lion, panther, cougar, and catamount.  All names for the same beautiful big cat.  And they were near the stunning Torres del Paine mountain range.

As I write this at the beginning of February I don’t know if I will be successful.  But the chase is a great part of the fun because it takes you to the great remote outdoors.

Antival Puro Fe 2021 is an appropriate celebration.  It comes from the Maipo Valley which is near Santiago Chile the gateway for my adventure.  The grape, Carmenere, is an ancient European grape related to Cabernet Sauvignon.  The fact that I’ve never heard of it makes it more interesting.

So raise a glass and help me celebrate the beauty of the Cats!.

Wine:    The Eyrie Vineyards, Spark

Donor:  Rick Kitto

The story: David Lett planted his first vines in Oregon’s Willamette Valley in 1965, the year we entered Princeton.  He was the first to plant pinot noir vines there and the first to plant pinot gris anywhere in the U.S.  He named his winery The Eyrie (after a hawk’s nest) and bottled his first pinot noir in 1970.  He also experimented with other varietals, many of which have found their way into The Eyrie’s “Spark”, a wine released recently by David’s son, Jason, now the winemaker at The Eyrie.

Over the years we’ve enjoyed visiting The Eyrie and even took in the 2017 total solar eclipse from their vineyard in the Dundee Hills, followed by vineyard tour guided by Jason, an unforgettable experience.    As it begins to heat up with the arrival of summer, and especially it seems at Reunions, we were looking for a light, relaxing wine.

Spark is first created as a still rosé from a variety of grapes, but primarily pinot noir and chasselas doré, the latter an old grape variety from the Alps and Jura regions in Switzerland.  After fermenting for 11 months on the lees, it’s bone-dry and ready to get its sparkle.  It’s carbonated and capped, so you don’t need to search for a corkscrew.  And 11% alcohol makes it easier to drink.  Hope everyone enjoys it as much as we do.

Wine:  2018 Mazzei Fonterutoli Chianti Classico

Donor:  Jim Kuzmick

The story: I love Italian reds, and this is a great one.  The Mazzei family has been making wines since 1435 in Castellina in Chianti, a town about 40 miles south of Florence.  

When our class members near DC toured Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello in 2012 at a Class of ’69 mini-event, the guide mentioned that Jefferson had wanted to make wines at his estate, having acquired a taste for them while serving in Europe.  He had met Philip Mazzei in 1773 while visiting Italy, and Mazzei came to the colonies later that year.  Knowing the Mazzei family had over 300 years of winemaking experience, Jefferson asked Philip to advise him about the art and science of growing grapes and winemaking.  

I had always loved Mazzei wines, and was surprised to learn of their family connection to Jefferson at our Class of ’69 mini-event.  

You just never know where Princeton experiences will lead you…

Here’s to our 55^th!

Wine:  Januik Winery  2021 Columbia Valley Merlot

Donor:  Jeff Marston

The story:  I have chosen this wine for two reasons.  The first is as a celebration of the State of Washington which is where I grew up.  The second is that I have a fascination with underdogs and both Washington wines and the Merlot varietal are in underdog positions. 

Merlot is a delicious varietal and makes a world-class wine.  For those of you who remember the 2004 movie Sideways with Paul Giamatti extolling the pleasures of pinot noir and “dumping” on merlot, you may not have noticed the irony of Paul’s favorite bottle, the one he finally opens near the end of the movie to console himself for his loss:  1961 Cheval Blanc.  It is not a pinot, or even a cabernet sauvignon.  It is primarily a merlot, with some cabernet franc.

Let’s toast to the underdog, and to life’s ironies!

Wine:  Chateau Suduiraut 2003 Sauternes Grand Cru Classé

Donor:  Sheldon Reaven

The Story:  Chateau Suduiraut is one of France’s great historical vineyards, included in the famous 1855 classification of all Bordeaux wines. It’s adjacent to Chateau d’Yquem.

Sauternes, 25 miles Southeast of Bordeaux, is a sub-district of the Graves district of Bordeaux wines.  Eleanor of Aquitaine first exported Graves wines.  Only five small vineyard areas are permitted the appellation of Sauternes (all sweet wines in the 1855 official listing are Sauternes). They quickly became known worldwide.  Wine connoisseur Thomas Jefferson (a Parisian for years!) said they were his favorites; he gave a sample to George Washington, who ordered 30 cases on the spot.

“Graves” is French for gravel.  Its soil is intensely gravelly with lots of white quartz. The profound sweetness comes from the Botrytis cinerea fungus that flourishes in autumn when mist descends overnight, formed by mingling air from a warm and a cool river; it  desiccates the grapes and concentrates their sugar.  Sauternes grapes are Sauvignon blancs, Sémillons, and Muscadelles.  Berries are harvested individually from September to November. It’s a tricky business. 

Today’s Sauternes is Suduiraut 2003 Premier Cru Classé — a ranking maintained since the official 1855 classification.  “Cru,” roughly “growth,” often changes its exact meaning and terroir connection sub-district by sub-district.

Our taste today of this Sauternes is dedicated to the memory of our honorary Classmate, Professor André Maman, a Commandeur in the Legion d’Honneur, and Sénateur representing overseas French.  The author of La France: Ses grandes heures and La France: Une Tapisserie was himself an incarnation of France. 

For our 2010 Mini-Reunion, he arranged for us to dine in the Sénat, in the Palais Luxembourg, in literally Napoleonic surroundings. Dick and Marian Bott, Parisians themselves, had a big hand in arranging Professor Maman’s Classmateship, and indefatigably in preparing said glorious first Mini-Reunion.  You can read about our adventures (Paris, Giverny, Mont-Saint-Michel, Bayeux, Normandy) on our Class website:  

https://princeton1969.org/page/France_report

Some of you will remember my on-site talk, “Logistics of the Normandy Invasion.”  And perhaps my talk “Richard Wagner’s Rhine” on our later Mini-Reunion — and Riesling expedition — along the Middle Rhine.

As you taste your Suduiraut Sauternes, kindly turn your thoughts to Melissa Etlin, my partner, to wish her a full return to health.  Melissa loves our Reunions, but was unable to come this year.  She spent her senior year, though a Brandeis student, taking classes at Princeton, and even took classes from Professor Maman. Later she taught at the American School in Paris. Melissa sends her fondest to our gang of sixty-nine.

Melissa and I recommend you savor any Sauternes while playing Scrabble with French tiles: letters K, W, X, Y, and Z carry10 points.  C’est formidable. like this Suduiraut.

Wine:  King Estate Willamette Valley Pinot Gris

Donor:  George Sheridan

The story:  Jean-Do (short for Jean-Dominique) had arrived in Eugene from Paris the night before.  I took him out the following evening for dinner at King Estate, my favorite local winery located some 20 miles outside of town.  Arriving there early, we were treated to a flight of fine wines, both red and white.  Then came a savory meal. We returned to town on a lone, winding country road.  It was dark.  All of a sudden two glassy eyes appeared, staring at me, as I barreled along at some 40-50 mph.  Within seconds, “crunch”!

Some years later, midday Saturday, I was driving my wife Jill and her brother Steve and wife Crunchy to lunch at King Estate.  They are, like Jill and myself, lovers of fine wine and cuisine and, of course, France.  All went well until our car was suddenly forced to a near crawl.  This time it wasn’t a critter but cyclists, some twenty of them!  We eventually reached the winery, though with some delay, and enjoyed a delightful afternoon, sprinkled with choice wine – including Pinot Gris, my favorite.

Moral of these stories:  A tale of two cities of right-thinking Oregon – that of untamed nature, and that of human muscle-powered locomotion.  Whether as nature’s revenge on your conscience, or as unstated protest against your carbon footprint, attachment to the age of internal combustion, in Oregon, comes at a price.  

Not so, here at Reunions, for degustation of King Estate Pinot Gris.

Enjoy!

Wine:  Sonoma-Cutrer Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

Donor: Joan Weidner, honoring my late husband, Tom (Tugboat) Weidner

The story:  Tom was the coordinator for the Cottage Club luncheon during the Class of 1969’s 50th Reunion.  One of his responsibilities was choosing the beverages, including wine and beer.   He had made most of the selections but needed one more white wine.  He spoke with the Cottage Club manager, whose name I can’t remember, and she suggested Sonoma-Cutrer.  In fact, she gave Tom a bottle to take home for both of us to taste.  We loved it and it was very popular during the luncheon.   The wine is medium-bodied with flavors of pear and peach along with tastes of vanilla, caramel and several spices.

I have been drinking it ever since and enjoying every drop.  Enjoy!

Wine:  2019 Calluna Vineyards CVC (Calluna Vineyards Cuvee)

Donor:  Wayne Wilson

The story:  I met David Jeffrey, proprietor and winemaker, through my partner Karen, who has long been a friend of his wife Marla.  Their Sonoma County hilltop home has a 360 view, including their Chalk Hill vineyards and the Russian River Valley.

After the first tasting, I was hooked.  It started with his Sauvignon Blanc, which has a bit of Semillon as well.  But I’m more of a red fan, even in warm weather, so I’ve contributed the CVC.

David is a passionate but thorough and careful artisan.  This Bordeaux-style blend leads off with almost 50% Merlot, almost 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and then Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petite Verdot complete the flavor profile.  The CVC shows off the more “feminine” style of a Bordeaux-style blend, which makes it more compatible with warmer weather and a wider range of foods.

When I told Dartmouth-educated David that we were going to taste it at my 55^th Reunion, I promised that we, too, would be gentle on his creation….

Wine:  Domaine de Nerleux Crémant de Loire La Folie des Loups NV

Donor:  Wayne Wilson

The story:  Sometimes, the best values in Champagne-style wines are from outside the Champagne region, usually with different grape combinations.  I’ve long been a fan of Loire wines in general, and the Cremants in particular.  This one is 70% chenin blanc, 15% cabernet franc, and 15% chardonnay, all organically grown.

To quote one reviewer, this wine “is simply packed with rich, toasty aromas...reminiscent of walking into a bakery in France and being greeted by the delights of fresh-baked bread, croissants, heady scents of butter and toasted almonds. The palate shines with white peach and nectarine.”

Alas, despite all the wine I’ve been exposed to, I don’t have a great nose for all those olfactory delights, but you can’t miss the toasty aroma.  I do love the Cremant!  After all, just the name of this wine is a mouthful!

A sante.